How do you identify a break in a wave?
As a wave approaches pay attention to the angle of the wave from the highest point down to the water level. Look for which side of the peak has the steepest angle down or sloping to the flat water. The side of the peak with the steepest angle down to the flat water is the direction that the wave will break.
What is a home break in surfing?
The home surf break relates to the spot where you normally surf, the place where your face is easily recognized, and you feel welcome, safe, and relaxed. Some surfers will live and surf where everything started for them, so their spiritual and home break are the same.
What makes a good surf break?
The ideal wind for a surf spot is a light offshore wind. An offshore wind blows from the shore, smoothing out the face of the wave and helps hold the lip up — the things a surfer is after. An onshore wind will make the wave break irregularly and close out, making the wave unsurfable.
What is a shoreline break?
The shoreline is moved seaward into deeper water, causing the beach to drop off quickly, posing a hazard to swimmers. This may also impact the surf for a period of time, causing the waves to break as shore break, until the beach and sandbars can reestablish a level of equilibrium.
IS LOW TIDE better for surfing?
The best tide for surfing in most cases is low, to an incoming medium tide. Keep in mind low-tide on shallow surf breaks jack the waves up higher, leaving less room between the water’s surface and ocean bottom.
What does a surfer Call the lip of a breaking wave?
Barrel. The barrel is the hollow part of a breaking wave where there is a gap between the face of the wave and the lip of the wave as it curls over. One of the highlights for any surfer is catching a tube ride.